THE ART OF Zenplicity


RIAD PORTE ROYALE, often affectionately referred to as RPR, has a large central courtyard, a salon, a loggia and five bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms. The riad can be dated back to 1750, since which time the street level has risen over a metre and a half (five feet) above that of the original courtyard. 

In 1890-91, Henri de la Martinière, on a scientific mission to Morocco, lived in a neighbouring riad in the same lane. He wrote that it was white and harmonious, and devoid of the ‘mediocre and heavy ornamentation’ found in Fes.

In this spirit, master craftsmen renovated Riad Porte Royale in the classic sober style. Pure clean lines are enhanced by the traditional use of cedarwood, tadelakt (polished plaster), bejmat (unglazed terracotta), local marble and handmade zellij tiles from Fes. We retained the thick walls, which help provide thermal control in the winter and summer.

In the spacious, sunny courtyard, the dramatic double height portico and the ancient carved and painted ‘porte royale’ are reflected in the clear water of the dipping pool. Standing nearby, a single grapefruit tree completes the sense of tranquillity. Textiles, rugs and objets d’art from caravan routes in Africa and Asia accent the white rooms. 

There are many corners to curl up in to read, or talk, or simply daydream, from the b’hou off the courtyard, to the loggia upstairs with its pretty window arches, or the white hi-tech canopy on the deep pink roof terrace with a view of nearby palms.  The style is traditionally Moroccan, with plenty of banquettes lining the rooms to relax on.